While at a boat shop in Fayetteville I found a steal on a poling platform built by Blue Point Welding out of Florida (was originally built to go on a Ranger Ghost).
Custom Flats Boat Build
Chronicling the construction of an 18-foot flats skiff, designed for fishing backwaters in Carolina
Monday, October 15, 2012
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Saturday, October 8, 2011
Wiring 90% Complete
I just got back from Cape Carteret, NC and the home of Joe Ward. Joe has been really into fishing for his whole life too, and just learned how to work on boats (including wiring) out of necessity over the years. He had the wiring all run and ready for everything to be connected when I got there. He was nice enough to let me work with him so that I could learn a little about wiring. It was really exciting to see the various components come alive. The trim tabs are hooked up and moving, the hydraulic jack plate is moving that 70 Yamaha, and speakers and stereo system are live, and the depthfinder is on. To Joe's credit, everything worked just like it should the first time, so today was a pretty efficient day. Joe knew how much time I've got in the boat, so he waited for me to come up and cut the holes where the components needed to go. We decided to put the speakers up front on the bulkhead instead of on the center console, which was a good call. It's almost there. Hoping to get wiring complete and get the outboard fired up on Tuesday of next week.
Here's a picture of the tunnel hull.
Joe Ward making sense of the chaos
Stereo, speakers, and depthfinder all hooked up.
Thursday, October 6, 2011
About Set
The boat is just about ready. I got the topside painted. Then I taped off all the areas that needed to be non-skidded. I sanded the non-skid areas, and then rolled on more paint mixed with non-skid particles. I ran the cables for the controls, steering, trim tabs, and jack plate. Right now, Joe Ward (former owner of Joe's Bait and Tackle in Atlantic Beach) is helping me out with the wiring. I got the Yamaha mounted on the jack plate, so it is almost ready to hit the water for the first time--just in time for speckled trout fishing time!
Topside getting painted
Transom with trim tabs and jack plate. Blue tape is for non-skid.
Here's a picture of the front deck with non-skid
Here's the console.
Final product
Ready for wiring.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Hull Side Paint Complete
I got the boat hull all primed and prepped for painting, and started looking into the cost of painting it myself. It was going to be a lot in materials, and then I still would probably waste a lot of material learning. I decided I have put enough time and effort into this thing to get it finished right. There is a guy that I see at the coffee shop in Hampstead who owns Mirror Image, Inc. His name is Shawn Fuchs and he specializes in auto painting and repairs. So, I talked to him about the boat one morning, and he felt good about being able to do it. Shawn was completely rigged up to help me, as he has a trailer with all of his gear so he was able to paint the boat right where it was in the garage. He did a hell of a job, and was very meticulous. Here are the results.
Thursday, September 8, 2011
Suppliers
Just thought I would include some stuff I learned about buying stuff for a boat build for any who may be beginning the process. Hopefully I can save others some time, headache and money.
US Composites is great (http://www.uscomposites.com/) . I used them for all the glass, peel ply, cabosil, fairing compound, and epoxy. The pink fairing compound they make is TheBomb.com. It mixes smoothly, sands easily, but it also cures pretty dense. I like it better than the fairing compounds that West System makes. The US Composites fast cure epoxy is super fast, and the slow is super slow. I would only get the fast for extreme cold building conditions, and I don't think i'd really use the slow again--you have to wait like 1-2 full days before you can sand it. Their peel ply and their glass are both good quality and priced competitively. They ship anything from a huge load of epoxy to one container of cabosil.
I got a few things at West Marine, but only when I needed it right away. Many things at West Marine can be found at literally 1/3 to 1/4 of the West Marine price, but when you are in a bind they are good. Also, know that they will price match--even if you give them online store pricing. I got three hatches from them for a total of $120. If I didn't do the price matching thing they would have cost me over 200 dollars.
Discount Marine Supplies (http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/) is great. I have to say that I was a little leery of ordering from them because there is no phone number listed on their site. If something doesn't work out I can't even get a hold of them, right? But as it turns out they are great and very responsive. I ordered trim tabs, steering wheel, steering system, fuel vent, fuel tank, gauges, and a few other items from them. I found out that my steering cable was too short. I just emailed Cristian at Discount Marine, and he called me back to say a new cable was in the mail. I didn't have to send back the whole thing--they just swapped me out cables. That was great. I spent a lot of time looking for the best deals on stuff that I bought, and I just stopped looking around because this site had either the best prices, or the best prices when you include shipping.
Another online company that I used was Wholesale Marine. I wouldn't suggest using them. Their operators are not very informed on what they are selling so you have to really know exactly what you need. Also, their shipping prices are high (I paid 22 dollars to have a fuel water separator, one keel roller, and 17 feet of fuel line shipped). At Discount Marine shipping is like $10 standard, and sometimes they waive shipping on larger orders.
Divinycell was a tough one. Just by chance, I found some locally and got it at a really good deal. I still had to buy another 10 sheets of 1/4 inch H80. This stuff is a killer. I ordered directly from Diab since that was the best price I could find, but it still set me back a pretty penny. I paid a ton in shipping because I had them keep them in 6 foot sheets, but I would do it again as opposed to having cut up and trying to joint them all back together for the build.
US Composites is great (http://www.uscomposites.com/) . I used them for all the glass, peel ply, cabosil, fairing compound, and epoxy. The pink fairing compound they make is TheBomb.com. It mixes smoothly, sands easily, but it also cures pretty dense. I like it better than the fairing compounds that West System makes. The US Composites fast cure epoxy is super fast, and the slow is super slow. I would only get the fast for extreme cold building conditions, and I don't think i'd really use the slow again--you have to wait like 1-2 full days before you can sand it. Their peel ply and their glass are both good quality and priced competitively. They ship anything from a huge load of epoxy to one container of cabosil.
I got a few things at West Marine, but only when I needed it right away. Many things at West Marine can be found at literally 1/3 to 1/4 of the West Marine price, but when you are in a bind they are good. Also, know that they will price match--even if you give them online store pricing. I got three hatches from them for a total of $120. If I didn't do the price matching thing they would have cost me over 200 dollars.
Discount Marine Supplies (http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/) is great. I have to say that I was a little leery of ordering from them because there is no phone number listed on their site. If something doesn't work out I can't even get a hold of them, right? But as it turns out they are great and very responsive. I ordered trim tabs, steering wheel, steering system, fuel vent, fuel tank, gauges, and a few other items from them. I found out that my steering cable was too short. I just emailed Cristian at Discount Marine, and he called me back to say a new cable was in the mail. I didn't have to send back the whole thing--they just swapped me out cables. That was great. I spent a lot of time looking for the best deals on stuff that I bought, and I just stopped looking around because this site had either the best prices, or the best prices when you include shipping.
Another online company that I used was Wholesale Marine. I wouldn't suggest using them. Their operators are not very informed on what they are selling so you have to really know exactly what you need. Also, their shipping prices are high (I paid 22 dollars to have a fuel water separator, one keel roller, and 17 feet of fuel line shipped). At Discount Marine shipping is like $10 standard, and sometimes they waive shipping on larger orders.
Divinycell was a tough one. Just by chance, I found some locally and got it at a really good deal. I still had to buy another 10 sheets of 1/4 inch H80. This stuff is a killer. I ordered directly from Diab since that was the best price I could find, but it still set me back a pretty penny. I paid a ton in shipping because I had them keep them in 6 foot sheets, but I would do it again as opposed to having cut up and trying to joint them all back together for the build.
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Crunch Time
A WHOLE lot has gone on since my last post. I have worked on the boat for the past three weekends (except one day--the day the hurricane came through). Also worked on it just about every week night too. Here are the things I have done since last post:
1) Faired the entire topside, including fine filling filling small lows and digs as well as pin holing.
2) Faired underneath gunnels where the rods will be stored (this part was miserable due to working in tight place).
3) Cut out deck holes for the read hatches to go, and cut out center console hatch hole.
4) Cut out front deck hatch, and built a ledge for it so it will lie flush with the deck. Borrowed my friend Scott Lindsay's router to make a trough around the lip so water won't go in the bilge.
5) Cut out access holes in the bulkheads so I can get to the below deck areas where different items will be mounted.
5) Put in reinforcing substrate material under the front deck so the deck will be able to support the weight of the trolling motor.
6) Built up strakes - they waved a little bit, so I used west systems 403 which has a little glass in it to even them out. I basically took a 2x4 and cut out the shape of the strake all the way across one end of it using the table saw at a 45 degree angle. Then I lined that cut out with plastic wrap, packed it with West 403, and then turned it over on top of the strake. This way, it cured in the shape of the strake. Once cured, I sanded it down, and then faired again using Interlux WaterTite.
7) Faired the spray rail using US composites fairing compound and epoxy.
8) Faired center console. It isn't perfect, and the reflection will walk a little on the sides, but it is close. Plus it will have things like speakers mounted on the sides, so hopefully that will cover some imperfections.
9) Made mount on floor using divinycell where center console will mount.
10) Primed topside of the boat, and sanded down to be ready for slick coat.
11) Ordered the rest of the hardware I need for the boat. All I have left is the spray rail, poling platform, and seat cushion that Tommy from Salters Marine is going to make. Plus the wiring materials that Luke Donat will need.
Here are some pictures of the progress:
1) Faired the entire topside, including fine filling filling small lows and digs as well as pin holing.
2) Faired underneath gunnels where the rods will be stored (this part was miserable due to working in tight place).
3) Cut out deck holes for the read hatches to go, and cut out center console hatch hole.
4) Cut out front deck hatch, and built a ledge for it so it will lie flush with the deck. Borrowed my friend Scott Lindsay's router to make a trough around the lip so water won't go in the bilge.
5) Cut out access holes in the bulkheads so I can get to the below deck areas where different items will be mounted.
5) Put in reinforcing substrate material under the front deck so the deck will be able to support the weight of the trolling motor.
6) Built up strakes - they waved a little bit, so I used west systems 403 which has a little glass in it to even them out. I basically took a 2x4 and cut out the shape of the strake all the way across one end of it using the table saw at a 45 degree angle. Then I lined that cut out with plastic wrap, packed it with West 403, and then turned it over on top of the strake. This way, it cured in the shape of the strake. Once cured, I sanded it down, and then faired again using Interlux WaterTite.
7) Faired the spray rail using US composites fairing compound and epoxy.
8) Faired center console. It isn't perfect, and the reflection will walk a little on the sides, but it is close. Plus it will have things like speakers mounted on the sides, so hopefully that will cover some imperfections.
9) Made mount on floor using divinycell where center console will mount.
10) Primed topside of the boat, and sanded down to be ready for slick coat.
11) Ordered the rest of the hardware I need for the boat. All I have left is the spray rail, poling platform, and seat cushion that Tommy from Salters Marine is going to make. Plus the wiring materials that Luke Donat will need.
Here are some pictures of the progress:
This is the fore deck taped off and ready to be cut out.
Fore deck after cutting out the hatch. I made it large enough so the fuel tank can be easily removed.
A load of fairing work, but she is finally ready for prime coat.
Robert, the friendly ghost.
Topside primed and sanded.
Boat flipped over thanks to the help of Kyle Hines, Juan Echevery, Robert (my helper) and the other Robert, my neighbor.
Robert and I getting the strakes lined up.
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